A generation of chefs is reinventing Greek cuisine. Here’s where to taste what they’re cooking.

For decades, Greek food abroad meant moussaka, souvlaki, and a sad approximation of village taverna cooking. The cuisine was frozen in amber—comforting, familiar, stubbornly unchanged.

In Athens, that’s no longer true.

A new generation of chefs has emerged, many trained abroad, all fiercely proud of Greek ingredients but unwilling to simply reheat their grandmothers’ recipes. They’re exploring regional traditions that never made it to the diaspora tavernas, applying modern techniques to ancient ingredients, and creating something that feels both deeply Greek and unmistakably contemporary.

The result is a dining scene that rivals any European capital. And unlike London or Paris, you can eat exceptionally well without spending a fortune.

The Neo-Taverna Movement

The term “neo-taverna” is loose, but the spirit is clear: take the warmth and conviviality of the traditional taverna, keep the good ingredients and generous portions, but update the food and the wine list.

This isn’t fusion or deconstruction. It’s refinement. Better sourcing, more precise cooking, thoughtful wine pairings—all served without the stiffness of fine dining.

Taverna Mavros Gatos (The Black Cat)

Ampelokipi

Chef Christoforos Peskias trained at elBulli, then came home and opened this deceptively simple neighbourhood spot. The menu changes constantly—wild greens foraged from the mountains, fish from small-boat fishermen, pork from heritage breeds.

Nothing on the plate looks fancy. Everything tastes exceptional.

Book ahead. The dining room is tiny.

Simul

Kolonaki

Chef Nikos Thomas’s “bistronomic” approach means sharing plates, seasonal ingredients, and an atmosphere that’s more dinner party than restaurant. The wine list is heavy on natural Greek wines. The food is creative but never shows off.

Try the fermented cabbage with smoked eel. Trust me.

Rakor

Metaxourgio

Thirteen years in, this Metaxourgio pioneer remains a neighbourhood favourite. The menu leans vegetarian without making a fuss about it—excellent salads, creative vegetable dishes, good grilled fish.

The crowd is arty, the prices are reasonable, the vibe is relaxed.

The Ingredient Obsessives

If the neo-tavernas focus on updating format, another strand of modern Greek cooking obsesses over ingredients. These chefs are less interested in technique than in sourcing: the right cheese from the right village, the olive oil from a specific hillside, the beans grown by a farmer they know by name.

Aneton

Historic Centre

Founded in 2005 by Dimitris Fotopoulos with a simple mission: “honest Greek food, executed with precision and respect for ingredients.” The recent move from a northern suburb to the historic centre signals a new chapter.

The menu reads like a geography lesson—cheeses from Naxos, sausages from Trikala, olive oil from the Mani. Each ingredient has a story. None of it feels precious.

Yiantes

Psyrri

Cretan cuisine, specifically. Chef Myrsini Lambraki has spent decades documenting the food traditions of Crete, and her restaurant brings that research to the table. Expect dishes you’ve never encountered: raw artichokes with lemon, wild herb pies, snails in wine sauce.

The flavours are pure, unfamiliar, and utterly Greek.

Feedel

Pangrati

A small plates restaurant focused on Greek mezze, but with impeccable sourcing and careful preparation. The kind of place where they’ll tell you which island the octopus came from and why it matters.

Excellent natural wine list. Friendly service. Easy to spend three hours here.

The Contemporary Greeks

At the higher end, a handful of restaurants are doing what might be called “contemporary Greek cuisine”—food that’s clearly rooted in Greek tradition but plated and presented with fine-dining precision.

Nolan

Plaka

A Michelin Bib Gourmand winner blending Greek and Japanese flavours. Small plates arrive when they’re ready—raw fish with Greek olive oil, tempura made with local vegetables, unexpected combinations that somehow work.

It’s not traditional. It is delicious.

CTC – Cuisine to Calm

Piraeus

Chef Christos Athanasiadis holds a Michelin star for his tasting menu in the Piraeus marina. Modern techniques, Greek ingredients, plating that belongs on Instagram. The location—away from the historic centre—keeps it from feeling touristy.

This is special occasion territory.

Makris Athens

City Centre

The newest Michelin star in Athens, awarded in 2024. Chef Petros Dimas sources most ingredients from his own farm outside the city. Three tasting menus—Genesis, Utopia, and Physis (vegan)—showcase what modern Greek fine dining can be.

Reserve well ahead.

The Wine Revolution

You can’t talk about modern Greek dining without talking about wine.

A decade ago, restaurant wine lists in Athens were afterthoughts—a few familiar labels, marked up heavily. Now, ambitious restaurants take wine as seriously as food, with lists heavy on small Greek producers, natural wines, and obscure indigenous varietals.

Key grapes to know:

  • **Assyrtiko** – Crisp, mineral white from Santorini. Perfect with seafood.
  • **Xinomavro** – Greece’s noble red, from Macedonia. Ages like Nebbiolo, pairs with game and lamb.
  • **Malagousia** – Aromatic white, almost extinct thirty years ago, now enjoying a revival.
  • **Mavrodaphne** – Sweet red, traditionally fortified, increasingly made dry.

Ask servers for recommendations. The best restaurants take pride in introducing guests to Greek wines they’ve never heard of.

Practical Notes

Timing: Athenians eat late. Arrive before 9pm and you’ll be dining alone. By 10pm, the room fills. Weekend reservations often stretch past midnight.

Reservations: Essential for popular spots, especially on Friday and Saturday. Many restaurants use the Fork or Tableture apps.

Dress code: Smart casual at most places. Athens doesn’t require jackets and ties, but shorts and flip-flops won’t fly at the nicer restaurants.

Budget: Expect €40-60 per person for a good dinner with wine at a neo-taverna. Fine dining runs €80-120 for tasting menus. Still significantly cheaper than equivalent restaurants in London or Paris.

The best modern Greek restaurants don’t reject tradition—they understand it well enough to know what to keep and what to change. The grandmother’s recipe remains the foundation. The execution is entirely new.